| 1. |
Question: |
There is a twin trunk which has been pruned properly over the years but recently has started to lean towards the house. I took out a dead twin two years ago, some 60 plus feet tall. How do I gauge it's health? The roots were severely damaged years ago.
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Answer: |
If the angle of the lean of the tree appears to be changing, the tree could be in the process of failing structurally. This is not uncommon following root damage. Decay organisms can invade damaged roots that can structurally weaken the tree causing it to fall. There are several methods to determine if the angle of lean is changing. You should contact a consulting arborist who is qualified to evaluate the tree and determine if removal is warranted or if other treatments could reduce the risk of failure to acceptable levels.
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| 2. |
Question: |
I am looking for information on transplanting fir trees as it relates to zone 5 (North-Central Mass.) I recently transplanted 25 fir trees, all six to seven ft. tall. The project started early September and ended mid-October. The temperature was in the 60's when I started but now is in the 50's and drops down to the 20's at night. What can I do to protect these trees, to keep them from freezing and to keep them alive through the winter? Should they be mulched and with what? Should they be fertilized? I built a well around each tree to hold a small reservoir of water and I watered them twice a week. The trees all look very well. They are not wilting, have not yellowed or lost needles. The soil I removed from the holes was not very good, consisting of loam, silt, clay and some shale. I removed all of the debris and treated the soil with tree and shrub pottingmix, peatmoss and organic compost from cow manure. I planted them in holes measuring 36"x36"x12". The balls measured approx. 30'x30"x8'. Any advice you can give me will be very much appreciated. Thank you for your consideration in this regard.
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Answer: |
Certain tree species are considered a “fall (autumn) planting risk”meaning that trees of this species have a higher risk of failure and poor growth when planted in the fall. Fir is one of the species listed as a fall planting risk and it is recommended that planting only be done in the spring. There is much speculation as to why some species don’t transplant successfully in the fall months but, the fact is that we do not fully understand the reasons for this.
Ensuring the plants have adequate soil moisture before the soil freezes is important. Mulches applied to the soil will also help conserve moisture and promote root development and establishment. Fertilization now will not influence establishment but should be considered in spring. Finally, any protection that can be given from wind would be helpful in preventing desiccation.
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| 3. |
Question: |
I have a nine-year old leland cypress. It is planted about four feet from a lake and gets good sun. A few months ago, portions of the tree branches began to turn a rust color and die. It appears to be spreading throughout the tree. I took a sample and pictures to the St. John’s Agricultural Center and was told that leland cypress trees begin to die at about eight years old. Upon some internet research, I did not find any info that confirmed that. I did find that there were two cankers that can affect the tree. I also noted that there is no known cure or control for them. An arborist told me that it should be sprayed with horticultural oil. I don’t know if I should have the tree removed or if there is some way to save it. Can you help me?
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Answer: |
Branch dieback on leland cypress is commonly caused by canker disease and this is the likely causal agent for the problem on your trees. Trees that are stressed by drought or excess soil moisture are more susceptible to this disease. We also find that trees that have been planted too deep and have soil over the top of the root flare are more prone to disease.
Pruning out diseased branches and identifying and correcting any stress inducing factors will help prevent further decline. Many homeowners choose to replace leland cypress with more durable species. I recommend that you consult a local arboretum/botanical garden for suitable replacement species.
Horticultural oil will not help the situation unless there is an insect infestation present that is causing plant stress. Leyland cypress can be infested with spidermites and scale insects that can be suppressed with properly timed treatments of horticultural oil.
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| 4. |
Question: |
I have four scrub oaks on my front lawn. A few years ago we had a drought here in Colorado and many of the roots of these trees came to the surface. They are now beginning to take over a beautiful lawn. Cutting them back doesn't help as they only grow back through the grass and with so many it's almost impossible to keep up. Is there any method I can use to kill the roots at the surface of the lawn without killing the entire tree? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Answer: |
As the tree roots grow in diameter, they will become a bigger problem. Tree roots will proliferate and thrive where there is water and nutrients so the environment created for the lawn is ideal for tree roots as well. Competition will only increase. Unfortunately, there is no way to eliminate the tree roots without impacting the health of these oaks. Consider developing mulched beds in areas where these large roots are evident (usually close to the stem of the tree). Irrigating heavily and infrequently can encourage deeper root development of the tree but I suspect that the trees have developed many shallow lateral roots that will remain near the surface. Sorry I can’t offer you better options.
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| 5. |
Question: |
At what time of year should healthy, mature Japanese Maples be pruned?
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Answer: |
Care should be taken when pruning mature trees of all kinds. We recommend a certified and experienced arborist inspect the tree before making recommendations.
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| 6. |
Question: |
Can you please advise a safe distance to plant a willow tree from electric transformers and sewage lines?
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Answer: |
As one of the most conductive trees on the planet, willows should have no part of the tree ever touching live power. The willow also is high on water content. For these reasons, planting should be at least 35 feet (11 meters) from the estimated drip-line.
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